Wednesday, November 16 (Day 78)
Maninoa – Salani - Lalomanu
My leg has turned rather gamy and my hornet finger is double the size it was before I went to sleep on the floor of my beach fale last night. I’m consequently feeling a bit low on energy. I could do with hiding away in an air-conditioned hotel room for 24 hours. Thankfully, my two German friends, Dorotee and Tom, are on hand with plasters, disinfectant and concern, to help clean up my knee.
Just before hitting the road again, I nip to Maggie’s beachside fale to say goodbye to her and I spot the following book in her possession:
Why men haven’t got a clue…and why women love shoes
My heart sinks. This kind of nonsense scares me. Here you have one of the cleverest, most thoughtful and apathetic ladies I’ve come across on my whole tour and she’s reading this nonsense; this absolute ####### drivel. I remember walking into an ex-girlfriend’s bedroom and spotting that she was reading:
Why Men Love Bitches
No, men do not love bitches. What a load of absolute crap. Men love kind, caring, loyal, thoughtful, beautiful women (perhaps even two or three of the above would be enough). I remember thinking that I might be in trouble when I saw that ridiculous book sat, three-quarters read, on her bedside table. And indeed I was right. She completely lost the plot within three months.
I’ve got a book title that might appeal to some men:
Why women haven’t got a clue…and men love prostitutes
One of the reasons I stopped off at Maninoa last night was because I thought I was breaking my journey to Lalomanu and would be able to travel along the southern coast of Upolu today. But, apparently, there is no bus service along the southern coast to Lalomanu and I need to travel all the way back to Apia to catch a bus from there. Bugger that.
If you hitchhike it maybe take you all day, the taxi driver warns me as he drops me off at the Apia junction.
Within 15 minutes I Hitch a lift from the Apia crossroads with the Chino-American chef of Sea Breeze Resort. You might have to sit here two hours before another car comes past, he warns me.
Five minutes later, a water delivery truck pulls up and the lads give me a lift all the way to the front door of the Lalomanu fales
You very lucky we come.
Very unlucky yesterday. Lucky today lads. Thanks a lot for the lift and company.
I’ve done a deal with the matai (village chief) who will let me stay in his fale (without meals) for 40 tala (12 quid). He’ll even phone up the bank and check the exchange rate on the Kiwi dollar so I don’t need to bus it all the way back to Apia to get an ATM. It’s adjacent to the lovely Taufua Resort and will likely become home for the next three nights.