River Number Two - John Obey
A wooden fishing boat battles the gusting Harmattan winds and makes it into the narrow estuary. Scraggy dogs bitch and fight as the crew unload the three one-metre long fish they bagged out at sea. It is 7am and well worth getting up early to admire this scene and the stunning landscape in the early morning light. Fortuitously for me I have also got chatting to three lovely 50-something American ladies who are working out here building water wells for rural villages. Not only will they kindly give me a lift to John Obey at noon but they also ask me to join them for breakfast on the beach.
I liked William's tent and camping spot but I can't say I am so crazy about his breakfast: a box of 100 tea bags, two cold water bags, a dozen milk powder sachets and a tub of margarine. I don't know where to start! I do manage to get a couple of bread rolls off him on request but it is the unwanted spicy omelette and a peanut butter energy bar - all donated by the American ladies - that really set me up for the day.
Dragonflies waft on air currents as I enjoy a swim that also doubles up as a shower and morning pee. The beach is all but deserted until ten.
I am sardined into the back of the ladies' Land Cruiser with two 20-kilo suitcases balanced precariously on top of my stomach and shoulders. This is the worst stretch of road I have encountered in all of Sierra Leone and I could very easily throw up all over the ladies' bags. The slash and burn fires are destroying gorgeous sections of forest, while lorries pass full of sand that has been dug from the nearby beaches. If you want to see West Africa's finest beaches then I suggest you visit Sierra Leone soon, before the money men destroy the coastline with their greed.
The ladies drop me at the junction for John Obey. They are on their way up country to Kabala where they hope to be able to put wells into a further three villages. You cannot imagine how much difference a clean water well will make to the living standards and well-being of a small rural African community. Big respect goes out to the three ladies from Ohio.